Page 58 - Ramadan 2022

58 LG RAMADAN 2022

Turkish tea and coffee culture

HİLE both Chi- citric acid, citrate, food essence
nese and Indians and vitamin C.
claim that they
Wfirst discovered DELICOUS TURKISH COFFEE
the use and drink of Tea thousands From the days of the Ottoman
of years ago, Turks evolved their Empire through the present, cof-
own way of making and drinking fee has played an important role in
the black tea (Çay in Turkish or Turkish lifestyle and culture. The
Camellia Sinensis in Latin), which serving and consumption of coffee
became a way of life for our cul- has had a profound effect on be-
ture. Wherever you go in Turkey, trothal and gender customs, polit-
tea or coffee will be offered as a ical and social interaction, prayer,
sign of friendship and hospitality, and hospitality customs through-
anywhere and any time, before or out the centuries. Although many
after any meal. of the rituals are not prevalent
The production of tea in Turkey in today’s society, coffee has re-
mainly started in the early years mained an integral part of Turkish
of the Republic along the eastern culture.
Black Sea Region. Many of the tea Brought to Istanbul in 1555 by
plantations are centered around two Syrian traders, coffee became
the town of Rize, and from the known as the “milk of chess play-
Georgian border to Trabzon, Ar- ers and thinkers”. By the mid-17th
akli, Karadere and Fatsa (near century, Turkish coffee became
Ordu), reaching in some places part of elaborate ceremonies in-
30 kilometers inland and reaching volving the Ottoman court. Coffee
the height of around 1000 meters makers (kahveci usta), with the
(3281 feet). In 1947 the first tea help of over forty assistants, cer-
factory was built in Rize and in emoniously prepared and served
1965 the production of dried tea coffee for the sultan. Betrothal
reached to the level of domestic customs and gender roles also
consumption. The tasks of buy- became defined through coffee
ing, processing and selling tea was rituals. In ancient times, women
conducted by the Tekel (Monopoly received intensive training in the
of State) General Directorate until harem on the proper technique of
then, in 1971 was transferred to preparing Turkish coffee. Perspec-
the Tea Corporation, and in 1984 tive husbands would judge a wom-
the Monopoly on tea was lifted an’s merits based on the taste of
and this facility was also provided her coffee.
to the private sector. For both men and women, coffee
Turkish tea is full-flavored and has been at the centre of politi-
too strong to be served in large cal and social interaction. During
cups thus it’s always offered in the Ottoman period, women so-
small tulip-shaped glasses which cialized with each other over cof-
you have to hold by the rim to save fee and sweets. Men socialized in
your fingertips from burning be- coffee houses to discuss politics
cause it’s served boiling hot. You and to play backgammon (Tavla
can add sugar in it but no milk, in Turkish). In the early 16th cen-
and you can have it either light- tury, these coffee houses played
er (weaker) or darker (stronger) host to a new form of satirical,
depending on your taste because political and social criticism called
Turkish tea is made by pouring shadow theater of Turkish folklore
some very strong tea into the in which puppets were the main
glass, then cutting it with water characters (such as Hacivat &
to the desired strength. Serious Karagoz). Over the years, Turkish
tea-drinker Turks usually go to coffee houses have become social
a coffee & tea house where they institutions providing a place to
serve it with a samovar (Semaver meet and talk. Today, Turkish cof-
in Turkish) so they can refill their fee houses continue their role in
glasses themselves as much as society as a meeting place for both
they want. the cultured citizen and the in-
A few years ago apple tea (Elma quisitive traveller. Istanbul offers
çayi in Turkish) was introduced many new and delightful cafe - res- it is being ground. One can also to foam. A rule of the Turkish cof- the saucer and allowed to cool, the
to the local market, especially for taurants where friends and family boil whole seeds with the coffee fee ceremony dictates that if the hostess then performs a fortune
tourists. Of course this has noth- meet to discuss topics of the day and let them float to the top when foam is absent from the face of the reading from the coffee grounds
ing to do with traditional Turkish over a cup of traditional Turkish served. Turkish coffee has six coffee, the host loses face. remaining in the cup.
Black Tea; it’s sweet, caffeine-free, coffee. Derived from the Arabica levels of sweetness ranging from Turkish coffee is served hot from Rich in tradition and flavor,
slightly tart, with a mild apple fla- bean, Turkish coffee is a very fine, very sweet to black. Since sugar is a special coffee pot called “cezve”. Turkish coffee remains a favorite
vor. But interestingly the list of powder-like grind. An aromatic not added to the coffee after it is Tradition states that after the today. As the Turks say “To drink
ingredients doesn’t mention any- spice called cardamom is some- served, spoons are not needed. As guest has consumed the coffee and one cup of coffee together guaran-
thing regarding apple; only sugar, times added to the coffee while the coffee begins to heat, it begins the cup is turned upside down on tees forty years of friendship”.