Page 46 - Ramadan 2022
P. 46

46                                                                                                                                   LG RAMADAN 2022































                                                                                                     common folk had to chew through   “Profiterole” fall into this category.
                                                                                                     the grains.
                                                                                                      They still do, to great enjoy-   PASTRY-BASED DESSERTS
                                                                                                     ment. Many different parts of the   These usually are soaked in a
                                                                                                     Ottoman Empire contributed their   syrup and include world-famous
                                                                                                     own local specialties to the palace   “Baklava”, as well as “Kadayif”
                                                                                                     kitchens where they were refined   (made from shredded pastry
                                                                                                     and transformed into a distinctively   baked in syrup, often filled with
                                                                                                     Ottoman - Turkish cuisine. Turkish   pistachio nuts, walnuts or clotted
                                                                                                     desserts usually fall into one of
                                                                                                                                    cream), “Revani” (a sweet made
         Turkish desserts                                                                            three categories:              from semolina), “Hanim göbegi”
                                                                                                                                    and “Sekerpare” (two kinds of small
                                                                                                          DESSERTS MADE WITH
                                                                                                                                    with yogurt), “Badem tatlisi” (made
                                                                                                        FRUITS AND VEGETABLES       sweet cake), “Yogurt tatlisi” (made
                  N  old Turkish saying   calendar is the one that marks   The blanc mange made in Turkey   Many fresh and dried fruits are   with almonds), “Lokma” (deep-fried
                  advises one to “eat   the end of the 30-day period of   and known as “Kazan dibi” must   stewed into compotes in which the   lumps of butter served in syrup),
                  sweetly and speak    daytime fasting during the month   certainly be one of the loveliest   fluid is as important an element as   “Bulbul Yuvasi”, “Sutlu Nuriye”, and
          Asweetly”. Sweets and        of Ramadan.                    parts of the mosaic that Turks have   is the fruit itself.    “Ekmek kadayifi” (made with bread
         desserts have always been an    A popular Turkish name for the   inherited from the ancient civiliza-  Desserts made from apricots or   in syrup). “Künefe”, a Southeastern
         important and distinctive element   Ramadan festival is “Seker Bayra-  tions of Anatolia.   figs are given a topping of fresh   specialty, is made from shredded
         of Turkish cuisine. That was true in   mi” (literally Sugar Holiday), which   Then there’s “Asure”, a festive   clotted cream and sometimes   wheat with a layer of melted yellow
         Ottoman times and is just as true   is a sort of capstone to the lavish   pudding of cereal grains, sugar,   crushed walnuts. The same topping   cheese and syrup. Altogether there
         today. Interestingly enough how-  desserts prepared for the sundown   and raisins. According to a legend,   is used on “Kabak tatlisi”, an unu-  are about 25-30 basic recipes for
         ever, they also fulfill an important   meals during the holy month. These   it was originally concocted in the   sual dessert made by cooking pieces   desserts known but with the addi-
         social and ritual function. Irmik   desserts are elaborate not only in   galley of Noah’s ark from whatever   of pumpkin in syrup.  tion of local variations the number
         Halvah, a confection made from   their ingredients but also in their   was left in the pantry.                             becomes enormous (around 200).
         semolina, is offered on the occasion   visual impact and presentation.  The pudding is served tradition-  MILK-BASED DESSERTS  In 1539 Suleyman I gave a huge
         of major changes in people’s lives:   The desserts and confections of   ally on the tenth day of the month   These include a wide variety of   feast to celebrate the circumci-
         a birth, a death, induction into the   Turkey bear witness to the rich   of Muharrem according to Islamic   puddings, some of which are baked.   sion of his two sons Cihangir and
         army, return from pilgrimage, upon   history of its people’s cuisine and   calendar, when preparing a batch of   “Keskül” is a milk pudding made   Beyazid. Archival records tell us
         settling in a new home, enrolling   geography. The dessert known as   Asure and distributing it to neigh-  with coconut. “Güllac” is a lovely   that fifty-three different desserts
         and graduating school; and also on   “Tavuk gögsü”, made with the milk-  bors and acquaintances is still a   confection of thin sheets of pastry   were offered to guests including
         special occasions such as praying   white meat of chicken breast was   common custom in many areas. The  in a milk sauce to which rosewater   different- flavored and colored pud-
         for rain, etc.                introduced into ancient Rome from   Ottoman palace kitchens produced   is added. “Tavuk gogsu” and “Kazan   dings, a variety of helvahs, pastries
          One of the most important    the Mediterranean and reintro-  a refined version of “Asure” that   dibi” are already mentioned in the   and cakes, and a large assortment
         holidays in the traditional Islamic   duced into Anatolia by the Romans.   was blended and strained; more   above. Also “Firinda sütlaç” and   of jams and compotes.
   41   42   43   44   45   46   47   48   49   50   51